Bali
Having been to Bali 39 times (as at September 2019) I am now fortunate to know enough of the language and some locals to make the experience an easy trip.
As you would expect, it has changed a lot in that time and you have to keep your wits about you. If you want to be a bogan, there are plenty of locals that will be happy to take your money. For the rest, enjoy it for what it is – a place with lovely people, lovely food and if you get away from the basic tourist traps, a very relaxing place to be.
I do not intend to write about every trip and every place I have been to but will give a general overview and just highlight a few of the places I have enjoyed the most. Having surfed all the major and well known surf spots like Kuta Reef, Airports, Bingin, Uluwatu, Balian, Medewi, Sarangen, Keramas (before there was a resort there), Nusa Dua, Sanur, Nusa Lembongan and Sumbawa (I know, not technically Bali), I would prefer to talk about some places that, as I get older, prefer to visit and enjoy surfing with locals who are happy to share their break without hassling. (Showing my age now!)
Jasri
Two hours drive up the east coast, about 15 minutes drive north of Candi Dasa, there is a little point break that wraps gently around and appeals to those of us that can’t get to their feet as quickly as they used to. It does not work regularly because it needs a big swell to push up the Strait at the right angle.
Like a lot of Bali, April to September provides the most consistent swell for the area. You may have to sit for a week or more at various times of the year to even get any size wave. There is not a lot to do there but sit and chill and enjoy the calmness of it all. It would not appeal to any hard core surfers or those that think they are. There are a few small warungs and some accommodation.
My favourite place to stay is Villa Matanai.
There are 2 big villas sleeping from 8-10 people, each with its own pool. There is another villa with 4 individual rooms with en-suites. They are good size rooms and air conditioned. From $50 per night including breakfast, it is the best value on the coast. Families are well suited to the larger villas. Check the website and contact Vince or Agung (the owner) for up to date pricing.
Here is a short video of what the place looks like.
Candidasa
Agung also owns a villa in Candidasa itself that is available for rent – Villa Rama in the Matahari Terbit complex.
It is a 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom villa with its own private pool and is situated right on the water’s edge. The villa has a fully equipped kitchen for those times when you don’t want another restaurant meal, as well as lounge and dining areas. It is only a 5 minute gentle stroll to the main road with an extensive choice of restaurants. There are enough small grocery shops to get some basics for lunch or breakfast.
We normally prefer to have our own breakfast in the villa and then make a decision about lunch on any given day. Dinner is at any of the restaurants ranging from basic Indonesian food to the upmarket Vincent’s , the restaurant at the Watergarden Hotel, Crazy Kangaroo Bar or the Indian and International cuisine restaurant, La Rouge. There is even a small hotel next door to Villa Rama that you get to by a gate in the fence that does more than adequate food if it is raining and you don’t feel like walking.
There is no surf at Candi Dasa but hire a car or a driver and travel up the coast road to Amed for lunch. It is a popular dive resort area. Plenty of restaurants to choose from. Try Sails restaurant. On the southern end and a little out of the main drag but great food and view.
If you are looking for some food with a bit of a difference, head up to Bali Asli for lunch about 20 minutes drive inland from Jasri. It serves traditional Bali style food, not generic Indonesian. It is owned by an Australian girl who has worked in upmarket hotels around the world. It is a bit more expensive than your basic Indonesian food but well worth it.
Tip 1: Take the Cooking School and learn how simple it is to create some great Balinese style dishes.
Tip 2: Everyone who has been there will tell you that you have to check out the toilets. I can’t help but think that Penny (the owner) had a very cheeky grin on her face while she was designing them. Rumour has it that she designed the toilets first and then designed the rest of the restaurant around them. The view of Mount Agung is spectacular.
OK, everyone stays in Kuta at some time and has their own favourite hotel. I have stayed in a number of different styles of accommodation over the years but only use Kuta/Tuban area as a stopover these days depending on when my plane lands. I will just mention a couple of hotels that I use to give an idea of what you can get there.
Hotel Solaris – I now stay here if I need some simple overnight accommodation. Small hotel and the buffet breakfast satisfies enough. Would not recommend as a long term holiday stay but I find it clean and tidy with very friendly staff for one or two nights. The price is definitely right.
Bintang Bali Resort – One of the larger, pricier hotels along Jalan Kartika Plaza but have always had a pleasant stay here. Typical large buffet breakfast means no need for a big lunch. Hotel has beach frontage with well kept gardens and large pool. Try the cold pool up the steps near the waterfall – very refreshing.
Maharani Beach Hotel – A smaller hotel situated at the beach end of Poppies Lane 1. Buffet breakfast is a bit limited but the staff are helpful and it is not expensive.
Tip: Get a front room upstairs for a great view of the famous Kuta sunsets from your balcony.
There are now many more modern style hotels in the area with all the latest, grand appointments if that is what you are looking for. These few are just my preference for a more relaxed and easy stay.
Of course, when I am in the area, my restaurant of choice is Garis Garis on Jalan Kartika Plaza, just near the Bintang Bali Resort. Have been eating here since it was called the C-Line restaurant back in 1995. Gede, the waiter has been there since 1993 and nothing is ever a problem. My personal favourite is the Spicy Minced Pork with Eggplant. Have eaten this on many a visit and have never been disappointed.
